Doors at the entrance, between rooms and in public places are a means of protection and a visual element. But they perform much more functions, because they prevent the spread of sounds, retain heat indoors and hide from prying eyes. In terms of security, it is first of all worth talking about the front doors. A good system at the entrance to the housing allows the owners to sleep peacefully. The same can be said of enterprises and their owners. One single door protects products in huge amounts. In these aspects, it becomes clear that everything is decided by the reliability of the materials. High strength is possessed by metals, especially iron, from which the most stable doors are made. Most of the aspects depend on the manufacturing method, assembly and quality of the raw materials. The buyer can only put the structure in the opening. The installation of the entrance metal door is usually ordered,After all, self-assembly leads to difficulties.
for residential, technical premises, offices, industrial facilities;
front door, entrance, interior;
technical, vestibule, protective;
1-, 2-fold and one and a half-fold;
1-6 classes of burglary resistance (mainly).
Metal doors between rooms are relatively rare, while entrance and front doors are popular because of their reliability. Tambour structures are used mainly only as an additional fence. They are continuous and lattice. Technical and protective equip with locks, made for specific needs accessories, heaters, additional locks. In particular, fire-resistant withstand fire for 15 to 90 minutes. A key indicator for metal doors is tamper resistance. First-class products cannot be reliably protected even from physical strength. The second is hacked with simple tools. Models of the 3rd class are opened only with the help of scrap. Doors starting from 4th grade and above are much harder to break. The 4th requires more sophisticated tools, the 5th - electric. But products of the 6th class without large electrical tools cannot be cracked.
Dimensions of metal doors
Parameters determine state standard specifications.For single-leaf input systems, the values correspond to 2085 and 2385 mm in height and 884 and 984 mm in width. The standard defines the performance of input bivalve models in the outdoor kit at the level of 1871, 2071, 2091 mm in height and 1272, 1472 and 1872 mm in width. Manufacturers, builders, customers, etc. have the right to design and produce doors with non-standard values. The rules and regulations provided for corridors for single and double paintings. Products of the first type have a height of up to 2400 mm and a width of 700-1100 mm. In bipartite systems, the vertical size reaches 2500 mm and 1300-2150 mm horizontally. Non-standard products with small height, large width and unusual proportions are installed in workshops, shops, offices. The minimum door size in apartment buildings is 700 × 1900 mm, where the first value is the width and the second is the height. At the entrances to private houses usually are single-door models with dimensions of 900 × 2100 mm or double-wing with any size.
Special configuration doors cost 30 percent or more!
Requirements for openings for installing a metal door
The opening must be larger than the door in order for the door frame to stand there. In width, the margin corresponds to about 8-10 cm. The vertical passage size ideally is exactly 6 cm more than the height of the canvas. According to SNiPs, the width of the opening should not interfere with the normal movement and carrying out evacuation measures, transportation on a stretcher. Sanitary standards indicate a minimum size of 80 and 190 cm for the width and height of the opening. They also determine the level of placement of the jumper. In rooms with a low ceiling - it is 185-188 cm from the floor. The indicators correspond to ceilings with a height of 2–2.3 m. All non-compliance with size requirements must be corrected. Adjustment to the parameters is carried out until the end of the finishing work. If the expansion is more or less simple, then narrow the opening should be no more than 3 cm, and to the same extent on each side. Another option requires agreement.
Necessary materials and installation tools
In the course of work, use cement mortar or polyurethane foam to seal the gap between the door frame and the wall. Before installing the door unit, all surplus is removed. At different stages, actions are also performed with a hammer, sledgehammer, grinder, building level, tape measure, punch, anchors, foam or cinder blocks, expanders. Grinder make incisions in the metal box of the door. Too wide installation space is finished with slag or foam blocks, or bricks. A minor discrepancy is corrected by frame expanders. In turn, with a conventional punch, the size of the opening is increased. The construction level is achieved absolute verticality. Installation of metal doors is carried out either by anchor fastening behind the eyes, or by a gripper. Only after completion of installation do they remove the protective film. It is left for a while, so that over and over again not to remove materials from the surface.
Aperture preparation
First of all, they release him from all that is superfluous: the door frame, platbands, and extras. The passage is cleaned so as to assess the condition of the wall. Sometimes the walls have to be expanded due to dilapidation, after which they will need reinforcement under a new "frame". The next thing is to shift all communications and wires that will be harmed by the new pattern of the opening. All lines too close to the aisle are also rearranged to another location. An empty opening is necessarily tested for the strength of the walls and, if there is a need for reduction, the method of such a change is determined. At the same stage, material is selected for work. The opening before the beginning of the manipulations for expansion or contraction must be clean, and its concrete or masonry - clearly visible. Before narrowing, the passage is marked with a metal rule placed on the floor in focus with the wall covering.
Opening expansion
The doorway is expanded after prior approval.Moreover, the removal of material along the vertical parts of the opening is carried out independently in accordance with the limits provided for in GOST. So, before the expansion, the dismantling zone is determined. Its dimensions correspond to the actual dimensions of the assembled system plus gaps. The stock performs insulation, compensation and installation functions. With an increase in the opening in the wall with a thickness of more than 10 cm by a distance of 10 cm, diamond wire cutting is used on each side. The development of 1 running meter will cost 1000 rubles, taking into account that the layer thickness is 10 cm. The excess is eliminated by drilling along the fracture line. The elimination of the layer can be carried out with trimming and breaking into small fragments. In the case of walls up to 8 cm thick, an ordinary angle grinder with a circle around the stone is enough. Then the cut lines are determined and compared.
Narrowing of the opening
It is performed by one of the following methods:
foam, cinder blocks;
brick;
drywall;
timber.
The narrowing is carried out in several stages. First, the existing passage is measured with a construction tape. They work together so that it does not sag. After determining the optimal height, make marks on the sides. The most durable narrowing option is with masonry. If we talk about blocks, then we need elements along the width of the opening in the right amount. Among the materials and tools, steel corners, masonry cement, cutting tools, a pencil, a ruler, a screwdriver, fasteners, a construction grater, level, lining will be required. In the grooves of the wall, angles with fastening on nails and screws are installed. Blocks are laid from below. It will not be possible to fill the entire height, but this is done to the maximum level. The construction grater eliminates excess cement. Then they wait a day and proceed to plating. The void from above is filled with foam or foam.
Box mounting methods
There are three main options: behind the eyes, through the box, with a grip. At the same time, 10 positions for fastening are necessarily made around the perimeter.Eyelets are a basic element of some models. Using their holes adjust the system when mounted in a doorway. As for the installation as a whole, it begins with the bending of the strips towards the wall surface. They are pressed as tightly as possible, because operational characteristics depend on this. Holes with the desired depth are made in the places of the holes on the strips. Then use size anchors, helping yourself with a wrench. Also check the vertical bar on the inner end, the lower partition and one of the sidewalls. At all points of the check, it is important that the indicators of evenness match completely. You can install the box smoother by eliminating unnecessary elements with a rotary hammer, grinder or chisel.
Whichever method of fixing the box is chosen - on the side faces you need from 3 fixation points, and on the top and bottom - from 2!
Eyelet Mount
The eyelet method involves the use of anchors or pins. Some new metal door models have eyelets welded to the frame. So, the box is set according to the level and proceed to its fixation. Through a slot in the eye, a 10- or 15-cm recess in the wall is created with a perforator. Then an anchor or pin is inserted into it. The second option is prepared in advance. It is enough to take a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of about 1 cm, sharpen one edge, and flatten the other, forming a thickening. So, the anchor or pin is driven into the recess until it stops. Fasteners are welded with eyes. If anchors are used, then they are fixed with a socket wrench. After installing the box, hang the canvas and check the correctness of the course. The door is opened alternately at 45 ° and 90 °. In these positions, the sash should not move without the application of force.
Box mount
In some models, manufacturers have provided through holes in the box. The main advantage is the ease of self-installation.At the ends of the door, then holes are made using a drill. The operation scheme will not cause complications: first, drill holes, focusing on the door frame, and then insert the fasteners. Parts for fasteners are all the same bayonets or anchors. Metal doors in this regard are much more profitable than wooden doors. Indeed, in the second case, only anchors with recessing into the frame are used. In this regard, pre-prepared recesses are also needed. In the case of nuts, the depth of fit is important - in accordance with the width of the fastener. Self-installation of a metal door through a through hole will save up to 5,000 rubles for installing a simple model and up to 10,000 for mounting a reinforced door.
Grip mount
Good option for metal doors. To implement the method, an additional outer box is used. It is made of profiled steel. Installation begins with the fastening of metal strips to the grooves. In the process, they resort to welding. The strips are welded around the perimeter at predetermined points. The width in the end should coincide with the end of the doorway. At the same time, its optimum thickness is 2-3 mm. As a result, the consumer receives a stable system, which is retained from the outside by profiled pipes. Fixation from the inside is carried out on the hooks. After each fastening manipulation, the position of the box is examined. The sides are regularly checked with a building level. The door unit is installed on the side where there are hinges, with the work in the direction from top to bottom.
Features of installing doors in different wall materials
Installation step by step:
Elimination of old elements.
Preparing space for installation.
If necessary - reinforcement of the opening.
Mounting the frame.
Installation of the canvas.
After removing the old door and fasteners, all the protruding parts, fragments of masonry elements, pieces of putty and so on are dismantled. Eliminate everything that may fall.Fill large empty spaces, leaving only small potholes. If the floor at the opening before the removal of the old canvas was weak, then it is strengthened, or the old coating is removed and a new one is made. The condition of the wood is checked with an awl. Installing doors in strong walls like concrete or brick does not require complex “maneuvers”. In the course of work, lining and wedges are used. Moreover, any method of fixing the box is suitable. In the case of wooden walls, fastenings for the bars and a seal of the passage are needed. Block piers are reinforced in several ways. This is either a corner metal frame, or a corner mortgage or a layer of wooden boards.
Installation in a brick and concrete wall
The door is installed first without sash / sash. A frame is placed in the prepared passage. Below it is supported by 20 mm mounting pads. The box should stand up freely. Compliance with the level is achieved by changing the thickness of the linings. Expose the box so that the racks do not deviate in any of the planes. Next, an even frame is firmly sealed with pre-prepared wedges. Wooden is a little better, but it will be faster and easier to buy plastic. They set wedges along long racks, generally closer to the top. Not far from the fasteners, but in a way that does not overlap them. Then they begin installation through one of 2 types of holes: through holes or welded eyes. For strong concrete or brick walls, any option is suitable. But in panel houses with thin piers, the pass-through method is chosen.
Installation in a wooden doorway
In wooden architectural elements, door structures are not installed directly in the wall, but through a pigtail or casing. Okosyachka is a beam with a movable fastening to the log house. The connection occurs according to the principle of a thorn groove and remains at the required level due to elasticity. The door frame is already directly attached to the bar. This approach is related to the features of wooden houses.Due to the sealing of joints and shrinkage, the house sits down and lasts for years, especially with regard to structures made of logs. If you do not follow the technology of door installation in wooden houses, rigid fastening will not be possible, and the door system may be pulled or jammed. The reverse situation is also possible - the door block will prevent normal shrinkage of wood. In which case, a groove is cut out in the aisle, and casing is made from the bar. Two parts are hammered into each other. No additional fasteners are needed.
Installation in the opening of aerated concrete
The opening is usually reinforced by one of the following methods:
metal frame;
mortgage;
wooden structure.
For example, a frame from a metal corner can be formed in an aerated concrete wall. If you don’t do any strengthening, perhaps the door will simply fall out. Jumpers for screed 2 angles are made where there will be mounting holes or eyes. The slopes are plastered and only after that they proceed to the main stage of installation. The option with a mortgage means the implementation of reinforcement along with the masonry. The doorway is reinforced with a mortgage part from a corner with a section of 100 × 75 × 8 mm with a welded mustache from relief fittings with a diameter of up to 10 mm. Mortgages are mounted on each side of the aisle, and their number depends on the height of the door leaf. For 2.1 m - this is 3 pieces. The box is attached to the amplifiers using anchors. After a series of manipulations, the door is also installed. Sometimes they use a U-shaped binding from 40 × 100 mm wooden boards. The bindings are fastened with self-tapping screws of 20-40 mm.
The main criteria for choosing a metal door
Doors are made mainly of sheet, profile and corner steel. For greater reliability and anti-burglary protection choose armored options. The web frame and power elements are formed from a bent square profile with additional stiffening ribs. The cells of the power frame should not exceed 220 cm² in area if the thickness of the steel sheet is reduced from 2 mm to 1.5 mm.The best noise and heat insulation are mineral wool filler. In turn, the most reliable profile of the door frame is in the form of the letter “P”, with a girth of the wall. Such a model will not allow the door to be squeezed out to either side. Another nuance, the hinges determine the strength of the door and counteract hacking attempts. The best fasteners are those that have an anti-cut. Hidden loops with shoulders or levers have less resource.
How to order a door with installation
You need to choose a design and degree (class) of sustainability. It is necessary to determine the minimum width of the opening, which will require at least three measurements. Another indicator, height, significantly affects the cost. As a rule, it is more profitable to change the height passage to one of the parties than to make a special order. The latter will cost 30-50% more. You need to learn more about hacking options. There are 2 main ones: power and intellectual. Complicated locks work against the second method. Different systems are required on each of them and additionally an internal valve. Locks, even with identical characteristics of secrecy, have different reliability indicators. Therefore, preference is given to the options with the greatest number of secrets. In an optimal scenario, at least one of all the castles is above average.
Conclusion
Calmness and confidence require certain steps. For example, the selection and installation of a massive iron door with a strong internal structure, good anti-burglary indicators and complex locks. Systems made of metal, in particular steel, are not so often mounted between rooms. For this reason, manufacturers focus on products with the above qualities, that is, to protect the entire apartment. GOSTs and SNiPs provide an accurate set of dimensional characteristics for both door systems and openings. This greatly facilitates preparation for work. The openings themselves often have to be expanded or narrowed.After preparing the place, one of three mounting options is performed - for the eyes, through the through hole in the box or with a grip. Doors are installed in the aisles from various building materials according to different rules. Special measures usually include reinforcement.
Doors at the entrance, between rooms and in public places are a means of protection and a visual element. But they perform much more functions, because they prevent the spread of sounds, retain heat indoors and hide from prying eyes. In terms of security, it is first of all worth talking about the front doors. A good system at the entrance to the housing allows the owners to sleep peacefully. The same can be said of enterprises and their owners. One single door protects products in huge amounts. In these aspects, it becomes clear that everything is decided by the reliability of the materials. High strength is possessed by metals, especially iron, from which the most stable doors are made. Most of the aspects depend on the manufacturing method, assembly and quality of the raw materials. The buyer can only put the structure in the opening. The installation of the entrance metal door is usually ordered,After all, self-assembly leads to difficulties.
Content
Types of Metal Doors
For various parameters, they are:
Metal doors between rooms are relatively rare, while entrance and front doors are popular because of their reliability. Tambour structures are used mainly only as an additional fence. They are continuous and lattice. Technical and protective equip with locks, made for specific needs accessories, heaters, additional locks. In particular, fire-resistant withstand fire for 15 to 90 minutes. A key indicator for metal doors is tamper resistance. First-class products cannot be reliably protected even from physical strength. The second is hacked with simple tools. Models of the 3rd class are opened only with the help of scrap. Doors starting from 4th grade and above are much harder to break. The 4th requires more sophisticated tools, the 5th - electric. But products of the 6th class without large electrical tools cannot be cracked.
Dimensions of metal doors
Parameters determine state standard specifications.For single-leaf input systems, the values correspond to 2085 and 2385 mm in height and 884 and 984 mm in width. The standard defines the performance of input bivalve models in the outdoor kit at the level of 1871, 2071, 2091 mm in height and 1272, 1472 and 1872 mm in width. Manufacturers, builders, customers, etc. have the right to design and produce doors with non-standard values. The rules and regulations provided for corridors for single and double paintings. Products of the first type have a height of up to 2400 mm and a width of 700-1100 mm. In bipartite systems, the vertical size reaches 2500 mm and 1300-2150 mm horizontally. Non-standard products with small height, large width and unusual proportions are installed in workshops, shops, offices. The minimum door size in apartment buildings is 700 × 1900 mm, where the first value is the width and the second is the height. At the entrances to private houses usually are single-door models with dimensions of 900 × 2100 mm or double-wing with any size.
Requirements for openings for installing a metal door
The opening must be larger than the door in order for the door frame to stand there. In width, the margin corresponds to about 8-10 cm. The vertical passage size ideally is exactly 6 cm more than the height of the canvas. According to SNiPs, the width of the opening should not interfere with the normal movement and carrying out evacuation measures, transportation on a stretcher. Sanitary standards indicate a minimum size of 80 and 190 cm for the width and height of the opening. They also determine the level of placement of the jumper. In rooms with a low ceiling - it is 185-188 cm from the floor. The indicators correspond to ceilings with a height of 2–2.3 m. All non-compliance with size requirements must be corrected. Adjustment to the parameters is carried out until the end of the finishing work. If the expansion is more or less simple, then narrow the opening should be no more than 3 cm, and to the same extent on each side. Another option requires agreement.
Necessary materials and installation tools
In the course of work, use cement mortar or polyurethane foam to seal the gap between the door frame and the wall. Before installing the door unit, all surplus is removed. At different stages, actions are also performed with a hammer, sledgehammer, grinder, building level, tape measure, punch, anchors, foam or cinder blocks, expanders. Grinder make incisions in the metal box of the door. Too wide installation space is finished with slag or foam blocks, or bricks. A minor discrepancy is corrected by frame expanders. In turn, with a conventional punch, the size of the opening is increased. The construction level is achieved absolute verticality. Installation of metal doors is carried out either by anchor fastening behind the eyes, or by a gripper. Only after completion of installation do they remove the protective film. It is left for a while, so that over and over again not to remove materials from the surface.
Aperture preparation
First of all, they release him from all that is superfluous: the door frame, platbands, and extras. The passage is cleaned so as to assess the condition of the wall. Sometimes the walls have to be expanded due to dilapidation, after which they will need reinforcement under a new "frame". The next thing is to shift all communications and wires that will be harmed by the new pattern of the opening. All lines too close to the aisle are also rearranged to another location. An empty opening is necessarily tested for the strength of the walls and, if there is a need for reduction, the method of such a change is determined. At the same stage, material is selected for work. The opening before the beginning of the manipulations for expansion or contraction must be clean, and its concrete or masonry - clearly visible. Before narrowing, the passage is marked with a metal rule placed on the floor in focus with the wall covering.
Opening expansion
The doorway is expanded after prior approval.Moreover, the removal of material along the vertical parts of the opening is carried out independently in accordance with the limits provided for in GOST. So, before the expansion, the dismantling zone is determined. Its dimensions correspond to the actual dimensions of the assembled system plus gaps. The stock performs insulation, compensation and installation functions. With an increase in the opening in the wall with a thickness of more than 10 cm by a distance of 10 cm, diamond wire cutting is used on each side. The development of 1 running meter will cost 1000 rubles, taking into account that the layer thickness is 10 cm. The excess is eliminated by drilling along the fracture line. The elimination of the layer can be carried out with trimming and breaking into small fragments. In the case of walls up to 8 cm thick, an ordinary angle grinder with a circle around the stone is enough. Then the cut lines are determined and compared.
Narrowing of the opening
It is performed by one of the following methods:
The narrowing is carried out in several stages. First, the existing passage is measured with a construction tape. They work together so that it does not sag. After determining the optimal height, make marks on the sides. The most durable narrowing option is with masonry. If we talk about blocks, then we need elements along the width of the opening in the right amount. Among the materials and tools, steel corners, masonry cement, cutting tools, a pencil, a ruler, a screwdriver, fasteners, a construction grater, level, lining will be required. In the grooves of the wall, angles with fastening on nails and screws are installed. Blocks are laid from below. It will not be possible to fill the entire height, but this is done to the maximum level. The construction grater eliminates excess cement. Then they wait a day and proceed to plating. The void from above is filled with foam or foam.
Box mounting methods
There are three main options: behind the eyes, through the box, with a grip. At the same time, 10 positions for fastening are necessarily made around the perimeter.Eyelets are a basic element of some models. Using their holes adjust the system when mounted in a doorway. As for the installation as a whole, it begins with the bending of the strips towards the wall surface. They are pressed as tightly as possible, because operational characteristics depend on this. Holes with the desired depth are made in the places of the holes on the strips. Then use size anchors, helping yourself with a wrench. Also check the vertical bar on the inner end, the lower partition and one of the sidewalls. At all points of the check, it is important that the indicators of evenness match completely. You can install the box smoother by eliminating unnecessary elements with a rotary hammer, grinder or chisel.
Eyelet Mount
The eyelet method involves the use of anchors or pins. Some new metal door models have eyelets welded to the frame. So, the box is set according to the level and proceed to its fixation. Through a slot in the eye, a 10- or 15-cm recess in the wall is created with a perforator. Then an anchor or pin is inserted into it. The second option is prepared in advance. It is enough to take a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of about 1 cm, sharpen one edge, and flatten the other, forming a thickening. So, the anchor or pin is driven into the recess until it stops. Fasteners are welded with eyes. If anchors are used, then they are fixed with a socket wrench. After installing the box, hang the canvas and check the correctness of the course. The door is opened alternately at 45 ° and 90 °. In these positions, the sash should not move without the application of force.
Box mount
In some models, manufacturers have provided through holes in the box. The main advantage is the ease of self-installation.At the ends of the door, then holes are made using a drill. The operation scheme will not cause complications: first, drill holes, focusing on the door frame, and then insert the fasteners. Parts for fasteners are all the same bayonets or anchors. Metal doors in this regard are much more profitable than wooden doors. Indeed, in the second case, only anchors with recessing into the frame are used. In this regard, pre-prepared recesses are also needed. In the case of nuts, the depth of fit is important - in accordance with the width of the fastener. Self-installation of a metal door through a through hole will save up to 5,000 rubles for installing a simple model and up to 10,000 for mounting a reinforced door.
Grip mount
Good option for metal doors. To implement the method, an additional outer box is used. It is made of profiled steel. Installation begins with the fastening of metal strips to the grooves. In the process, they resort to welding. The strips are welded around the perimeter at predetermined points. The width in the end should coincide with the end of the doorway. At the same time, its optimum thickness is 2-3 mm. As a result, the consumer receives a stable system, which is retained from the outside by profiled pipes. Fixation from the inside is carried out on the hooks. After each fastening manipulation, the position of the box is examined. The sides are regularly checked with a building level. The door unit is installed on the side where there are hinges, with the work in the direction from top to bottom.
Features of installing doors in different wall materials
Installation step by step:
After removing the old door and fasteners, all the protruding parts, fragments of masonry elements, pieces of putty and so on are dismantled. Eliminate everything that may fall.Fill large empty spaces, leaving only small potholes. If the floor at the opening before the removal of the old canvas was weak, then it is strengthened, or the old coating is removed and a new one is made. The condition of the wood is checked with an awl. Installing doors in strong walls like concrete or brick does not require complex “maneuvers”. In the course of work, lining and wedges are used. Moreover, any method of fixing the box is suitable. In the case of wooden walls, fastenings for the bars and a seal of the passage are needed. Block piers are reinforced in several ways. This is either a corner metal frame, or a corner mortgage or a layer of wooden boards.
Installation in a brick and concrete wall
The door is installed first without sash / sash. A frame is placed in the prepared passage. Below it is supported by 20 mm mounting pads. The box should stand up freely. Compliance with the level is achieved by changing the thickness of the linings. Expose the box so that the racks do not deviate in any of the planes. Next, an even frame is firmly sealed with pre-prepared wedges. Wooden is a little better, but it will be faster and easier to buy plastic. They set wedges along long racks, generally closer to the top. Not far from the fasteners, but in a way that does not overlap them. Then they begin installation through one of 2 types of holes: through holes or welded eyes. For strong concrete or brick walls, any option is suitable. But in panel houses with thin piers, the pass-through method is chosen.
Installation in a wooden doorway
In wooden architectural elements, door structures are not installed directly in the wall, but through a pigtail or casing. Okosyachka is a beam with a movable fastening to the log house. The connection occurs according to the principle of a thorn groove and remains at the required level due to elasticity. The door frame is already directly attached to the bar. This approach is related to the features of wooden houses.Due to the sealing of joints and shrinkage, the house sits down and lasts for years, especially with regard to structures made of logs. If you do not follow the technology of door installation in wooden houses, rigid fastening will not be possible, and the door system may be pulled or jammed. The reverse situation is also possible - the door block will prevent normal shrinkage of wood. In which case, a groove is cut out in the aisle, and casing is made from the bar. Two parts are hammered into each other. No additional fasteners are needed.
Installation in the opening of aerated concrete
The opening is usually reinforced by one of the following methods:
For example, a frame from a metal corner can be formed in an aerated concrete wall. If you don’t do any strengthening, perhaps the door will simply fall out. Jumpers for screed 2 angles are made where there will be mounting holes or eyes. The slopes are plastered and only after that they proceed to the main stage of installation. The option with a mortgage means the implementation of reinforcement along with the masonry. The doorway is reinforced with a mortgage part from a corner with a section of 100 × 75 × 8 mm with a welded mustache from relief fittings with a diameter of up to 10 mm. Mortgages are mounted on each side of the aisle, and their number depends on the height of the door leaf. For 2.1 m - this is 3 pieces. The box is attached to the amplifiers using anchors. After a series of manipulations, the door is also installed. Sometimes they use a U-shaped binding from 40 × 100 mm wooden boards. The bindings are fastened with self-tapping screws of 20-40 mm.
The main criteria for choosing a metal door
Doors are made mainly of sheet, profile and corner steel. For greater reliability and anti-burglary protection choose armored options. The web frame and power elements are formed from a bent square profile with additional stiffening ribs. The cells of the power frame should not exceed 220 cm² in area if the thickness of the steel sheet is reduced from 2 mm to 1.5 mm.The best noise and heat insulation are mineral wool filler. In turn, the most reliable profile of the door frame is in the form of the letter “P”, with a girth of the wall. Such a model will not allow the door to be squeezed out to either side. Another nuance, the hinges determine the strength of the door and counteract hacking attempts. The best fasteners are those that have an anti-cut. Hidden loops with shoulders or levers have less resource.
How to order a door with installation
You need to choose a design and degree (class) of sustainability. It is necessary to determine the minimum width of the opening, which will require at least three measurements. Another indicator, height, significantly affects the cost. As a rule, it is more profitable to change the height passage to one of the parties than to make a special order. The latter will cost 30-50% more. You need to learn more about hacking options. There are 2 main ones: power and intellectual. Complicated locks work against the second method. Different systems are required on each of them and additionally an internal valve. Locks, even with identical characteristics of secrecy, have different reliability indicators. Therefore, preference is given to the options with the greatest number of secrets. In an optimal scenario, at least one of all the castles is above average.
Conclusion
Calmness and confidence require certain steps. For example, the selection and installation of a massive iron door with a strong internal structure, good anti-burglary indicators and complex locks. Systems made of metal, in particular steel, are not so often mounted between rooms. For this reason, manufacturers focus on products with the above qualities, that is, to protect the entire apartment. GOSTs and SNiPs provide an accurate set of dimensional characteristics for both door systems and openings. This greatly facilitates preparation for work. The openings themselves often have to be expanded or narrowed.After preparing the place, one of three mounting options is performed - for the eyes, through the through hole in the box or with a grip. Doors are installed in the aisles from various building materials according to different rules. Special measures usually include reinforcement.